Searching for Outlander's Jamie and Claire in Scotland

If you haven't seen the first season of the Starz hit show, Outlander, I suggest checking it out.  Unlike other movies or TV shows about the highlands of Scotland that were more often than not filmed outside of Scotland, Outlander really showcases the beauty of the country and did all of its filming in country - despite challenging conditions with rainy, cold weather and annoying swarms of midges.

I have enjoyed the first couple of books from the Outlander series by Diana Gabaldon as well as the TV show.  Since the show began airing in the summer of 2014 (in the U.S. at least), the demand for Outlander tours has grown, where fans of the books and shows can visit Scotland and see some of their favorite filming sites.  Since I was already in Edinburgh, and a lot of the most notable non-soundstage filming was done around the Edinburgh region (within 1 hr drive), I decided to rent a car and do my own tour.  Sure you can hire someone else to take you, if you are not comfortable driving on the other side of the road, but it's so much better to stick to your own schedule rather than a guided group schedule.  The tour, for me, start and finish times were around 8am and 5pm.  I wish I had more time to grab the two sites south and east of Edinburgh, but I had tickets to a Fringe Festival show that evening.  Below is a map of the sites I did visit.

Follow this link for a clickable map that not only has the red markers for my tour but blue markers for places I didn't visit on this day trip out of Edinburgh. The blue markers on the clickable link map are either Edinburgh locations not in Season 1 but in the book series, major Outlander sites not in Edinburgh that I visited in the days following, or filming sites I did not visit.

I tried to match my photos against screenshots or other reference photos.  All photos not credited are owned by Starz/Sony Pictures Television.  OK, all that being said, here we go....

Outlander Day Tour from Edinburgh:

Duke of Sandringham's Rented Estate (Hopetoun House)

I arrived before opening time on the estate, so not only was I not able to get the more beautiful rear photo of the house (where scenes were filmed of Jamie and Murtagh leaving after a visit with the Duke and, later, the dual between the Duke and the head of the MacDonald clan).  The interior of the house was used for more Sandringham footage.

Lallybroch (Midhope Castle)

While Hopetoun is rather easy to find, Midhope takes a little maneuvering.  Actually, it's easiest to just set your GPS for Abercorn Church, then drive past it and take your first right.  While you can drive up to the point of being able to see Midhope, I would suggest parking at the end of the drive and not driving all the way up next to the castle.  Plus, with your car in the way, you won't get a shot like I did of Lallybroch!

Fort William (Blackness Castle)

This old military fort on the River Forth is a dreary and cold place used to film the horrible whipping scene of Jamie by Black Jack Randall.  The metal railings were covered on the left with wood for authenticity, and a stand in the middle of the castle grounds was erected for the scene.  Blackness is part of the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass, a 3 or 7-day pass for many of Scotland's popular sites.  I would suggest thinking about where you want to go while in Scotland, doing the math, and seeing if buying a pass is a discount over purchasing individual entries at each site you visit.

 

Corridors for Wentworth Prison (Linlithgow Castle)

Linlithgow Castle is one to visit despite its Outlander reference.  This was once a giant working catle for King James the IV of Scotland, later James the I of England.  James was the son of Mary, Queen of Scots, and the successor to the English throne after Elizabeth I.  The castle is just the shell now, with all of the roofs and upper floors beyond the 2nd floor gone.  Still, a significant site for Scottish history. This site is also covered under a Historic Scotland Explorer Pass.

The Kelpies

This has nothing to do with Outlander, but if you're driving from Linlithgow to Culross, then you can't miss these horse head modern art installations from the highway.  They are a bit of a trick to access, and it costs £2 to park, but I'd like to think of it as an Outlander tribute to Donas the Horse. So it's going in this tour!

Leoch Gardens and Gellis' house (Culross Palace)

Culross (pronounced Cool-russ) is a small village north of the River Forth, practically across from Blackness.  When you drive into town, you will see an Abbey on your left.  Consider parking around there, or else consider following the increasingly narrow street to the bottom of the hill.  There is a limited amount of parking near the center of town, by the Town House and Palace.  You will need to visit the Town House first to buy a ticket to the Palace, the mustard yellow colored building in the photos below.  The Palace is managed by the National Trust because it is a very old home, dating back to the late 16th century, owned by a successful merchant.  Besides being a filming location on Outlander, it also has a room with a painted ceiling that is breathtaking.

The gardens behind Culross Palace were used by Outlander to film some garden/herb collecting scene between Gellis and Claire.  Castle Leoch was superimposed behind them in post-production.

Inside Culross Palace, one of the first rooms you see on your left was used as one of Gellis' rooms.  In the scene where Jamie "rescues" Claire from an increasingly uncomfortable interrogation from Gellis, Jamie enters through that door in the center of the photo below, with Claire looking down at the boy nailed to the stocks below in the square.  Gellis is on her lounge by the fire.

Cranesmuir (Mercat Cross - Culross)

Up the hill from Culross Palace, you may have spotted the Mercat Cross on the drive or walk down. This square's buildings were painted a grey-blue color for the scenes used in Outlander, which included the ear nailing of the boy and the dragging of Claire and Gellis to their trial for witchcraft.

Black Kirk (West Kirk - Culross)

This church ruin is hidden up the hill from Culross.  While I did the climb/walk to the site, I think that you should be able to easily drive to the end of the road, park, and walk the short earthen path through the fields to the site.  If you parked near the Abbey, head uphill and the road is the second one on the left. Follow to the end of the road where you see signs for trails.  Take the trail on the right and it's maybe 100 yards if that.  The West Kirk was used to film the scenes where Jaime takes Claire to investigate the poisoning of Mrs. Fitz's nephew and finds Lily of the Valley.

1940s Inverness (Falkland)

You will want to set your GPS to the Covenanter Hotel to find the several filming angles used in the TV series.  Like Culross, some of the buildings were painted to more muted greys.  I tried to desaturate my photos so that they embraced the look of the filming location.  Of course, here is where the mysterious highlander is by the fountain in the rain looking up into Claire's room.  Perhaps inspiration for a reenactment photo?

French Seaport in Season 2 (Dysart)

For those who have read the books, you will know that the story is portrayed a little different than the television show.  The monastery is, in fact, in France.  Once Jamie has recovered from his prison incidents, then the couple moves on to Paris via a French harbor to meet Jamie's cousin, Jared Fraser. In the show, though, with the monastery plot happening in Scotland then the three sailing for France, they will land in a French port.  Until the show airs, it will remain unclear if the same port-related Compte St. Germain events occur in both book and show. (Trying to minimize spoilers right now.)

Monastery (Aberdour Castle)

The monastery scenes were all shot at Aberdour Castle.  Many of the rooms were altered to fit the desired look of the set.  For instance, the stable room was made smaller to become a hallway.  Looking through my photos, I cannot figure out which room was made into Jamie's bedroom.  And the shot of Claire and the highlanders was on the exterior overlooking the castle's gardens, in front of the castle ruins section.  One of the attendants of the castle tried to convince me that the kitchen in the ruins was used as Jamie's cell in Wentworth prison, based on her interpretation of the scene, but I have yet to match it up to Episode 16.  Everything I have looked at does not come close.  Check it out for yourself if you go.

There is also a really neat meat storage dovecot in the back of the gardens that you should definitely check out.

Outlander Edinburgh References - Potentially in Season 2 

(and definitely in the books, so spoiler alert)

Cannongate Kirk:  This is where Colum meets with Jamie and Claire for the last time before the battle of Culloden.

The World's End Pub:  Jamie and Claire duck into the pub to escape the rain.

Heart of Mid-Lothian (Site of the old Tollhouse Jail): the Tollhouse is referenced heavily as a prison worse than anything else in Scotland.

Edinburgh Castle: Bonnie Prince Charlie gained control of Edinburgh for a bit during his Jacobite campaign, using both the castle and the Holyrood Palace.

Other Major Outlander Sites Not in Edinburgh Vicinity

Castle Doune:

Used for Castle Leoch, also filming location for Monty Python's Holy Grail and Game of Thrones' Winterfell.

Culloden Battlefield (Inverness):

Getting to the battlefield was a short, but expensive, taxi round trip.  There are also bus options or find it as part of an organized tour.  The Culloden Battlefield Visitor Center is really well done, and tells the story of the rebellion campaign from both the Jacobite and the Government (English) perspectives - on opposing walls.  They also had a GPS guided walking audio tour you can take with you into the battlefield to get a perspective of what happened where.

George Square, Glasgow:

Building where Frank proposes to Claire, arched street behind Glasgow City Chambers.  Also filming location for opening scene of Brad Pitt's "World War Z."

Glasgow Cathedral:

Season 2 - reported closed for filming, scene unknown.  Also photos were posted on Twitter by Matthew B. Roberts, one of the show's executive producers.

Here is one of the photos Matthew B. Roberts posted.  It's a view of the cathedral from the Necropolis on the hill.

Stirling Castle:

Season 2 - Potential to be filmed as it was a battle in the book, though it played a much larger role in the first Jacobite rebellion by William Wallace et al.  (Think Braveheart)

Beauly:

This is the seat of the Clan Fraser of Lovat and where Jamie has to go to visit his grandfather, Simon Fraser, 11th Lord Lovat, to get troops for the Jacobite rebellion.  I highly doubt that filming will occur in this town, but when I stayed in Beauly for a tour of the highlands and stayed at the Lovat Arms, I was greeted with this carpet pattern:

Other Outlander filming places I didn't visit while in the UK

• Flotterstone, Penicuik (outside Edinburgh) - filming of the Cochnammon Rock ambush was done there
• Glencorse Old Kirk - Milton Bridge, Midlothian (south of Edinburgh) - Jamie and Claire's wedding chapel
• Preston Mill - Mill scene at Lallybroch
• Bo'ness and Kinneil Railway Station (near Falkirk) - Claire's train departure going off to war
• Newtonmore (Highlands) - outdoor scenes
• Ardverikie Estate, Kinlochlaggan (Newtonmore) - riding with the redcoats to meet with the Commander
• Highland Folk Museum (Newtonmore) - Scene in "Rent" where Claire learns how to dye wool
• Tulloch Ghru (Aviemore) and Rothiemurchus Estate (Highlands) - outdoor scenes
• Rannoch Moor, Perthshire - Craig Na Dun
• Pollok House Country Park, Glasgow - House is being used for Season 2 (storyline unknown at this time), park used as the grounds of Leoch and another one of Claire's herb gardens
• Salisbury (site unknown) - Estate party in "France" that has been filmed for Season 2
• Finnich Glen - where Dougal takes Claire to test if she is lying

And here's a map screenshot of all the locations mentioned that are also on the link mentioned earlier:

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Edinburgh Fringe Festival 2015

When I thought about going to my first Edinburgh Fringe Festival, I thought I had a good grasp on what to expect.  Crowds. Good shows. Not so good shows. What I did not expect is that in August, Edinburgh would not only be host to Fringe but also The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, Assembly Fest, Edinburgh Art Festival, Edinburgh International Book Festival, Edinburgh International Festival, and Edinburgh Mela Festival.  Needless to say, everywhere in the city was crazy!

All along The Royal Mile, there are people handing out flyers to shows, street entertainers, and people doing who knows what in the name of art.  Tents are set up on the west side of St. Giles church selling crafts.  Pubs are open until 3am and cafes and clubs until 5am.

Some of the effects of the festival month can be mitigated in advance.  The obvious is to book early for accommodations and even train tickets if you know your schedule.  I waited on the train ticket and paid more, for sure.  The other thing on your preparations to-do list is to get tickets to a few shows in advance.  Tickets start going on sale in January, with additional tickets released monthly as more shows are accepted into the festival.  While the booking is easy, it's the selection process that is overwhelming.  You're looking at over 250 venues, and assuming they are putting on hour long shows for most of the day, say upwards to 10 shows per venue at least, so that's 2500 shows each DAY!  My strategy was to look around for early write ups on the Fringe Festival around springtime because there would be a good list of options available by then.  Of course, opinions will always differ and they may likely not even match up to your taste preferences.

I knew I wanted to see at least one improv comedy show and, perhaps, a show that has returned to the festival because of its popularity in previous years.  The shows are affordable on their own, but after you start to add more and more into your cart, it gets a bit expensive.  You're looking at maybe £10-15 for each show.  Yes, there are many free shows available too, and you may be lucky, but you may also get what you (don't) pay for in those shows.  Realistically, I would not do more than 3-4 shows in one day.  In my experience, getting from one venue to another requires a minimum of 15 minutes walking, maybe less if you can find a cab.  If your next show is in the same venue, you still need 10 minutes to get out of one show and into another.  Queueing for shows starts up to 30 minutes before the doors open too.  There are a number main venues for the festival:  Assembly at George Square, Pleasance Dome, Pleasance Courtyard, Gilded Ballroom, and Underbelly.  Not to say that all the venues can be found in or around those spots.

I ended up with tickets to four shows over two days, with three on one afternoon and one the next evening, because I had other things I wanted to accomplish in Edinburgh.  The favorite of the four was Thrones! The Musical.  Yep, a musical parody of the popular TV series, Game of Thrones.  I suppose one should probably be a fan of the show before committing oneself to seeing a parody.  The show was created by Baby Wants Candy, an improv troupe from Chicago more known for their improvised musicals.  Obviously, this show was scripted.

For another pure improv show, I took the recommendation to see Aaaand Now for Something Completely Improvised by the U.K. based improv troupe Racing Minds.  The show was fantastic, and you can tell that the have been playing together for a long time because the show flowed so well, with the improv-ers picking up on and agreeing with each other seamlessly.

The final two shows I went to were ok.  I wanted a break from the improv, so I went with a comedy/ drinking show: The Thinking Drinker's Guide to the Legends of Liquor.  The two presenters, Ben McFarland and Tom Sandham ,used dress up and funny stories to talk about the history of liquor like whiskey, gin, vodka, and even some beer.

The final show I selected was because, according to the description, Ricky Gervais said it was the best thing ever.  I wouldn't go so far as to agree with Ricky.  It was entertaining, for sure, but not the best thing ever.  The show was BLAM!  It was four actors, well more like miming stunt men, who were stereotypical office workers that liked to jump into superhero action scenes using the office products and furniture as their props.  It was a LARPer's dream show (that's Live Action Role Play if you are unfamiliar with the term LARP).  Good show for kids, ok show for adults.

Last thoughts on Fringe Festival:  It was super fun and I wish I had spent a week there! Unfortunately, it's just too expensive to do so because the hotels bump up their rates, the restaurants are crowded, the waits are long, and seeing more shows adds to the bill as well.  At least now I have my first fringe under my belt and can learn from my experience, so the next time I go it will probably be for 3-4 days because I will always want to leave room to explore the historic sites of Edinburgh while in town - it's one of my favorites!

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Edinburgh, Scotland and Vicinity

Built on the spine of volcanic rock, Edinburgh (pronounced Ed-in-burr-uh) has a city history that dates back to the middle ages.  The city layout we are able to tour today can be rooted back to at least the 16th century, with the fort on top of the hill and small paths, or closes, that branch off of the main road down the hill - the High Street, also known today as The Royal Mile.  Edinburgh was once bordered by a wall on Chambers Street, the Nor Loch and later Princes Street and gardens to the north, and a city gate called Netherbow Port to the east, lower on the hill.  Today The Royal Mile extends beyond the former gate location to Holyrood Palace, which marks the end of the stretch and the bottom of the hill.  Most references to early Edinburgh that remain today are from the 17th century, a time when within this maybe a 2 square mile area, approximately 21,000 people lived. With the stability of the volcanic rock as a foundation, buildings were built up to 10-14 stories high to accommodate the crowded city. The closes between these tenement buildings were steep and narrow.  Many of them remain in the city for exploration, assuming you like walking up and down hills while on vacation.

To get an idea of the city's layout and history, as always I took a walking tour.  I could have opted for the Sandeman's free tour, as I have in prior European cities, but this time I chose a Secrets of the Royal Mile tour offered by Mercat because it included a guided walk through Edinburgh Castle.  Unfortunately, I was visiting during the Edinburgh International Festival, so The Royal Mile was loud and crowded - made even worse because it was surprisingly sunny in Scotland.  The guide had to alter her route to not include the lower mile and to find quieter spots off the main street.

The tour started by the Mercat Cross, located next to St. Giles Cathedral.  This was prime festival area, so we quickly moved behind St. Giles to talk about Parliament, then went down Advocates Close, and over to find ourselves in front of the Writers Museum in Lawnmarket.

I don't want to talk too much about the tour because I know that my experience was based on the conditions of the town of Edinburgh in August, so someone will probably have a completely different  and more extensive route any other time of the year.  There was an option to continue the tour into Edinburgh Castle. The ticket price was more expensive, unless you have a Historic Scotland Explorer Pass in which case you only pay for the regular tour.  Even Edinburgh Castle was not in its normal state when I visited. The esplanade, which many told me has fantastic views down the Royal Mile, was occupied by a massive temporary grandstand set up for the annual Royal Edinburgh Tattoo - a nightly performance in August of international military regiments.

Part of the castle we can visit today dates back to the 12th and 15th centuries.  Many years of wars and sieges led to repairs and additions to the castle.  After being a prison for the 18th century and early 19th century, the castle was finally declared a national monument.  Much was changed during Victorian times to the interior and exterior to make the castle more aesthetically pleasing to the city skyline, including the redesign of the gatehouse and the Great Hall. Today, it is primarily a tourist attraction, but it also functions as home to a ceremonial military garrison as well as a military museum and war memorial.

While in Edinburgh, another tour to consider is the Mary Kings Close tour.  As I mentioned earlier, Edinburgh was designed with these narrow closes, or wynds, to separate the tall tenement houses. These lanes and alleys were named after the most prominent citizen resident of the close or a common business on the close.  Mary Kings Close was named after Mary King, a businesswoman who inherited her shop from her late husband and expanded its success.  King owned several properties on the street.  Houses along Mary Kings Close and the neighboring Stuart Close were demolished to make room for the Royal Exchange building, now the City Chambers across from St. Giles Cathedral. Many of the walls of the tenements on the two closes were used to form the foundation of this large Royal Mile building.  As a result, you can go "underground" to see examples of original rooms and apartments, look at examples of the disparate living conditions of the poor and the upper middle classes, and learn about the plague that was unaffected by class distinction.  And, you will hear the worst story of all, the 7am and 10pm "gardyloo" calls, where refuse buckets were emptied onto this, maybe, 10 foot wide close - draining down the hill into the Nor Loch.  Though the city's nickname of "Auld Reekie" started a few hundred years ago because of the chimney smoke from all the apartments, it's understandable that the name could also cover all the other foul stenches, including the once-a-year bathing regimen on top of the gardyloo.

Now that I have probably thoroughly disgusted you, don't forget about the modern history you can find in Edinburgh.  And by that, I mean the Elephant House cafe where J.K. Rowling wrote her Harry Potter series!  Make sure to check out the toilets!

And finally, if you have something big coming up that needs a sharp mind, give the big toe of David Hume a wee rub.  Hume is a Scottish philosopher, historian, and economist whose thoughts published in are considered to have influenced the construction of the United States Constitution.  Rubbing his toe is thought to bring good luck for exams or reviews.

City Viewpoints

Who doesn't love a cityscape photo?  While most of the time you're in Edinburgh you will feel like you are constantly going uphill, there are some advantages to that.  If you are in Edinburgh Castle, you will be able to find many views, especially of the north side of the city, though not as pretty as a castle-facing view.

For those looking for a physical challenge and some views, there is a large, volcanic slope that you can't miss called Arthur's Seat.  Access to trail options leading you to the top is through the grounds of Holyrood Palace.  Though I had planned to do a morning hike one day while in Edinburgh, that idea was scrapped when I was met on my short walk from the train station with SEVEN flights of stairs I had to climb (The New Steps) - with my luggage weighing a combined 80-85 lbs, mind you - to get to my hotel. Then there was the day I chose to climb Calton Hill not once, but twice.  And, of course, the constant ups and downs getting from Point A to Point B in Edinburgh.  To say the least, I was exhausted!!!  So Arthur and his seat, pictured below, will be saved for next time.  And there most definitely will be a next time.  I loved Edinburgh!

Speaking of Calton Hill, this view can be accessed by (1) starting at Holyrood Palace and climbing up the cemetery steps off of Calton Road to get to Regent Road, turning left and walking until you see the entrance stairs to the hill of monuments.  Or (2) you can cross North Bridge and make a right on Princes Street.  The second way is a little less hilly.  Either way you choose, it is a stop I encourage you to take.  I went during the day because I was expecting sunset to be poor (and it kind of was) and possibly rainy.  The second climb, for sunset, I did not expect to stay beyond sunset until 10:30pm, with other photographers on the hill, to watch the fireworks finale of the Royal Tattoo.  It was a fantastic bonus that made up for the lackluster sunset, despite the wind being strong and cold, and me with no jacket.  

Of course, I'll just remind you that I had with me a tripod, remote shutter release, and 28-300mm telephoto lens for these night shots.  Your non-DSLR camera, iPhone, iPad, selfie stick will not replicate the sunset or night shots below.

Getting Out of Edinburgh

There are tons of options that require either doing some research to find a bus company for a tour or planning your own tour and renting a car.  I did both!  In an upcoming post later this month, you'll see what car-based tour I created.  It included stops at two castles just outside of Edinburgh: Blackness Castle and Linlithgow Castle.  For Stirling and Doune Castles, I used Discover Scotland Tours for a day tour out of Glasgow.

Blackness Castle 

Built in the 15th century, Blackness was connected for two centuries to activities at Linlithgow Palace nearby.  It was used as a prison for high and middle class citizens until 1707.  What remains today was mostly built in 1543, with repairs being made after damage caused by Oliver Cromwell's army.  Blackness was a garrison post from 1707-1874, then it became an ammunition depot until after WWI.

Linlithgow Palace

These castle ruins were once home to the Scottish King and Queens.  Throughout the 15th and 16th centuries, the palace was consistently used and improved upon by the royals.  Mary Queen of Scots was born in the palace and would continue to visit in her later years.  In the early 17th century, after James VI moved his court to England with the Union of the Crowns, the residence was rarely used and fell in to ruin until James VI had it repaired years later.  The Earl of Linlithgow occupied the residence, but it once again fell into disrepair, until finally it was burned in 1746 by the Duke of Cumberland.

Glasgow

If Edinburgh is known for its historical character, Glasgow is much more of a commercial center. The city center is lacking in sites to visit, though George Square and the Glasgow Cathedral are must see places.  Glasgow is more about the culture - performing arts, museums, etc.  They also have a few hidden lanes that are popular for shopping or food and drink:  Ashton Lane and Cresswell Lane.  For me, I went to Glasgow because I had never been before, and I used it as my base for a tour to the nearby popular castles and Loch Lomand.  If you want to do Glasgow as a day trip from Edinburgh, the trains are frequent and cheap - under £13 round trip.

Doune Castle

Less known for its history as a medieval stronghold and, later, a hunting residence and dower house, Doune Castle is being visited more frequently now by fans of Monty Python, Game of Thrones, and Outlander.  It was the filming site of the taunting french soldiers scene in Monty Python and the Holy Grail, interior scenes of Winterfell on GoT, and home of the Mackenzie clan (a.k.a. Leoch) in Outlander.

Stirling Castle

The history of Stirling Castle is vast because of its size and location.  Like Linlithgow, the castle was a residence to Scottish Kings in the 14th and 15th centuries, though the use of the land as a fortified military post dates back to the Romans.  It's location is atop a volcanic crag near the last possible crossing of the River Forth.  During the War of Scottish Independence, Stirling Castle was occupied by the English until William Wallace and company dislodged them after the Battle of Stirling Bridge. A tall monument to William Wallace can be seen from the castle atop a nearby hill.  I'm only scratching the surface of the castle's history here.  The battles continued for another 59 years in the Wars of Scottish Independence.  And Stirling continued to switch occupants for hundreds of years after. So the end of this description is for me to just tell you to go see the castle!

Hairy Coos

I can't write a post about Scotland and not talk about the cute highland cattle, also known as hairy coos.  You'll see them sporadically in fields.  Sometimes you may be lucky enough to catch some near the fence who are interested in saying hi and posing for a photo!  Be cautious of their sharp horns though.

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